Innovation, creativity and controversy – gardening has changed much over the past decade
By Tim Richardson
Published: 12:03PM GMT 11 Dec 2009
The decade that was: the domes of the Eden Project, which opened in 2001. Photo: CHRISTOPHER JONES The Noughties has been a time of great excitement and change, following a decade that saw lots of sound and fury (all those Nineties "makeovers" involving decking, barbecues and blue walls, courtesy of Ground Force team Alan Titchmarsh, Charlie Dimmock and Tommy Walsh), signifying not very much in the end.
The past decade, on the other hand, has seen a new planting style from Europe sweeping to popularity. If the Nineties was all about lifestyle and showing off, the Noughties have proven to be a more reflective period for Britain's gardeners, who have hunkered down with nature in terms of planting style, horticultural technique and a mellowed-out attitude to personal space.
Trends from Europe
The future arrived from Holland in the form of snowy-haired designer Piet Oudolf (pronounced Peet Ow-dolf). He had been making gardens for a select group of British clients in the late Nineties, but he really burst into public consciousness around the turn of the millennium courtesy of a series of books on how to create naturalistic gardens using a palette of grasses and mainly tall perennials, the most successful of which was Designing With Plants (1999), in collaboration with Noel Kingsbury.
Oudolf designed gardens at Pensthorpe nature reserve in Norfolk (2000) and at RHS Wisley in Surrey (2002), where the RHS's endorsement, although controversial at the time, reflected the impact this "new perennials" style was already having. Today, many British gardens betray Oudolf's influence to some degree: he has persuaded gardeners to make grasses and taller perennials a key feature of the garden, which is now more often planted for form and structure than for colour.
Shrubs, which were starting to fall from popularity even in the Eighties, have been increasingly replaced by grasses and other bulky plants as structural subjects – much to the chagrin of some traditional plantsmen.
The new naturalism
Against this backdrop, the 20th-century ideal of the colour-themed mixed border as the culmination of a gardener's art quickly gave way to the concept of creating a garden that is at ease with itself and its surroundings.
The signature colour combination of the late Nineties was the vivid red of the dahlia 'Bishop of Llandaff' and orange cannas prefaced by the purple haze of Verbena bonariensis (all courtesy of Christopher Lloyd at Great Dixter). A decade later it has morphed into the golden-russet, late-summer tones of grasses such as calamagrostis or molinia, offset by spires of digitalis, verbascum, persicaria and salvias, or the fluffy plumes of filipendula and thalictrum, all waving gently in the wind before visibly decomposing through winter.
It is the shape of the plant that matters in new perennials, with repetition and rhythm created by means of daisy forms (rudbeckias, echinacea, asters, inulas) or flat-capped umbellifers such as sedum, angelica, eupatorium and achillea.
The meadow-garden movement can be related to this general trend towards naturalism, and in the past few years it has been developed in the hands of the "Sheffield School" of landscape designers, who are recreating naturalistic habitats in public spaces with little self-conscious design in the mix.
Green roofs are part of their remit, while fashionable green walls or vertical gardens remain the preserve of French designer Patrick Blanc, who is the only person out there with the technical ability to make them last, it seems.
The plants we loved
Away from grasses and tall perennials, among the plant trends we have seen in the Noughties are the continuing niche predeliction for snowdrops and unabated interest in alliums. Meanwhile, corydalis, digitalis, salvias, hellebores, thalictrum and euphorbia have all become general nursery staples alongside the hardy and ever-reliable geraniums and pulmonarias. Herbaceous perennials remain the undisputed focus for most gardeners, while the ever-popular rose shows no sign of fading in its appeal, with characterful old shrub roses still the choice of the cognoscenti.
Conceptual gardens
At the other end of the design spectrum, the non-naturalistic garden and landscape design has also begun to make an appearance on the British garden scene, in the shape of conceptualist landscape design – that is, design based primarily on ideas, often utilising colourful forms and non-natural materials.
A burgeoning interest for these "avant gardeners" has been reflected in a series of dedicated, albeit short-lived shows, such as the much admired Westonbirt Festival (2002-2005) and Future Gardens (2009), while the RHS's Hampton Court show now stages a conceptualist section. This year, conceptualist design even made it into the main show garden arena at the RHS Chelsea Flower Show.
A thoughtful attitude to gardens was reflected in the short-lived Modern Gardens Open Day (2004-2005) and continues to grow courtesy of discussion groups such as Thinkingardens. Meanwhile, the revamped Garden Museum in London has in the past couple of years become the hub and meeting place for British gardeners. The Royal Botanic Gardens at Kew got in on the art/gardening act with critically acclaimed exhibitions on the work of glass sculptor Dale Chihuly and an important outdoor retrospective of Henry Moore.
Restoration projects
This has been a period of retrenchment and reflection for organisations such as the National Trust, after a bonanza of restoration and visitor-centre construction during the Nineties, not all of it well advised. The most interesting developments have been in new plantings for colour and scent in 18th-century landscape gardens such as Painshill and Stowe. These were previously thought of, erroneously, as "green gardens" with few flowers. The most impressive restoration – or recreation – of the decade was also the most controversial: the Elizabethan garden at Kenilworth Castle by English Heritage, which opened this summer.
English Heritage has initiated several other admirable historic projects, including the reinstatement of the great fountain and surrounding parterres at Witley Court in Worcestershire. One outstanding one-off garden project was the Duchess of Northumberland's extraordinary revamp of the walled gardens at Alnwick, Northumberland (2002), incorporating a gigantic cascade. Meanwhile, the threat to historic Greenwich Park, which has been earmarked for the equestrian element of the 2012 Olympics (entailing a 23,000-seat arena and 6km eventing course), is being opposed by the Garden History Society and local residents.
Climate change becomes mainstream
The Eden Project in Cornwall opened in 2001 as a prescient reflection of environmental preoccupations on a tourist-attraction scale. Increasingly, garden owners are thinking of their plots as part of a continuum of the surrounding ecology, encouraging wildlife to thrive as much as possible while accommodating their own leisure needs and horticultural interests. The garden is cherished ever more as a private sanctuary and a refuge from modern life now that the home has been invaded by the internet and mobile phone.
Related to the ecological emphasis is the surge in popularity of allotments and the home-growing of fruit and veg, particularly noticeable in the past two years. The phenomenon of the celebrity gardener/cook came to the fore mid-decade, reflecting the fact that most gardeners are cooks (although the reverse is less often true).
There are no reliable statistics on this, but it appears that "grow-your-own" has attracted large numbers of younger people to gardening – those in their twenties as opposed to their thirties – which has to be good news for the future.
Back in the Nineties gardens were heralded as fashionable or "sexy" in the mainstream press – when they weren't really, of course. Today, with allotment chic in full swing, it appears they might actually be quite cool. If so, we had better make the most of it. Nothing in the garden, and nothing in gardening, stays still for long.
Friday, December 11, 2009
Thursday, December 10, 2009
Rose Gardening
You guys won't believe the web site I've found on Rose Gardeing.
It's the most beautifull garden I've ever seen. Here is the link to it:
http://roseswedgwoodhouse.blogspot.com/
Do yourself a favour and go to the link above... it's out of this world.
It's the most beautifull garden I've ever seen. Here is the link to it:
http://roseswedgwoodhouse.blogspot.com/
Do yourself a favour and go to the link above... it's out of this world.
Tuesday, December 8, 2009
What If You Could Easily Have A Lovely Landscaped Gardening? – Simple Landscape Gardening Tips
Landscape gardening can be used to help you create a beautiful and personal space. There are some great tips you can apply to your own yard or garden and find that little ideas and changes can go a very long way. You can use these tips to start your own garden or to improve your existing garden.
Many times the most important design concept, perspective, is missing from gardening beds. Determine which way you will normally view that bed. If you only look at to form one direction then taller plants should be in the back with shorter plants being planted in front.
The plants at the very front should be very close to the ground. If the bed is in the middle of an open area then use the same principle but work from the center, with the tallest plants, in the middle and shorter plants on the edges.
Color is very important and there are many landscape gardening tips associated with color and the garden. The use of color in any garden is important and you need to plan out what colors you are using and when they will be present. Certain colors are related to emotions and if you are looking to create a soothing and relaxing space the white and color colors are recommended. To vary the look when using one color you should use different textures, shapes and sizes.
There are some useful tips for landscape gardening for beginners as gardening does not need to be overly difficult. If you chose easy to care for plants then you can enjoy your garden without having to be constantly maintaining it.
Some plants that are easy to care and should be thought of for your garden include calla lily, petunias, dahlias, hyacinth, aster, mum, lilies, snapdragons, sunflower, pansies, impatiens, violets, phlox and poppies.
I know how you feel, you love garden landscaping but are a bit overwhelmed by it all. Then this is what you need to do NOWFirst, go to http://4landscapegarden.com/landscape-gardening/ to get honest and impartial reviews on some popular and successful ‘landscape gardening‘ products. NextIf you are serious about having a beautiful garden, TRY one of them, they do work. Thirdenjoy the site and pick up some tips. Fourththere is no fourth, NOW is YOUR time, grab this opportunity and start creating the landscaped garden of your dreams, you deserve it.
I really enjoyed this guy's blog on gardening so thought I'd share it with all you nice people.
http://www.tips-and-guides.com/
Many times the most important design concept, perspective, is missing from gardening beds. Determine which way you will normally view that bed. If you only look at to form one direction then taller plants should be in the back with shorter plants being planted in front.
The plants at the very front should be very close to the ground. If the bed is in the middle of an open area then use the same principle but work from the center, with the tallest plants, in the middle and shorter plants on the edges.
Color is very important and there are many landscape gardening tips associated with color and the garden. The use of color in any garden is important and you need to plan out what colors you are using and when they will be present. Certain colors are related to emotions and if you are looking to create a soothing and relaxing space the white and color colors are recommended. To vary the look when using one color you should use different textures, shapes and sizes.
There are some useful tips for landscape gardening for beginners as gardening does not need to be overly difficult. If you chose easy to care for plants then you can enjoy your garden without having to be constantly maintaining it.
Some plants that are easy to care and should be thought of for your garden include calla lily, petunias, dahlias, hyacinth, aster, mum, lilies, snapdragons, sunflower, pansies, impatiens, violets, phlox and poppies.
I know how you feel, you love garden landscaping but are a bit overwhelmed by it all. Then this is what you need to do NOWFirst, go to http://4landscapegarden.com/landscape-gardening/ to get honest and impartial reviews on some popular and successful ‘landscape gardening‘ products. NextIf you are serious about having a beautiful garden, TRY one of them, they do work. Thirdenjoy the site and pick up some tips. Fourththere is no fourth, NOW is YOUR time, grab this opportunity and start creating the landscaped garden of your dreams, you deserve it.
I really enjoyed this guy's blog on gardening so thought I'd share it with all you nice people.
http://www.tips-and-guides.com/
Monday, December 7, 2009
"Leaves, persimmons, and traveling"
Tom - 7th Street Cottage said...
I use leaves in all my beds too. Some are mulched, some are left whole for the winter to protect self sown seeds and the existing soil. I began almost all my gardens with leaf mold from the local landfill. When they stopped giving it away earlier this year thanks to state regulators who are worried there MIGHT be something in the leaves, I started collecting my own. A neighbor has a large pile, years old, where all the leaves go each fall. When I need mulch, I usually look there first sometimes adding a little wood mulch if I can find it cheap. This fall I have collected and spread leaves in all the new beds. I've shredded and layered leaves in the new vegetable beds. I like to think that I'm echoing what happens in nature. My gardens last year gave me the proof I needed that it works. I ate and viewed my successes.
Enjoy your travels. Be safe. Take lots of photos. We'll be here when you get back. So will the leaves, in some form or another.
December 5, 2009 7:41 AM
I thought you guys might like this:
http://naturalgardening.blogspot.com/
I use leaves in all my beds too. Some are mulched, some are left whole for the winter to protect self sown seeds and the existing soil. I began almost all my gardens with leaf mold from the local landfill. When they stopped giving it away earlier this year thanks to state regulators who are worried there MIGHT be something in the leaves, I started collecting my own. A neighbor has a large pile, years old, where all the leaves go each fall. When I need mulch, I usually look there first sometimes adding a little wood mulch if I can find it cheap. This fall I have collected and spread leaves in all the new beds. I've shredded and layered leaves in the new vegetable beds. I like to think that I'm echoing what happens in nature. My gardens last year gave me the proof I needed that it works. I ate and viewed my successes.
Enjoy your travels. Be safe. Take lots of photos. We'll be here when you get back. So will the leaves, in some form or another.
December 5, 2009 7:41 AM
I thought you guys might like this:
http://naturalgardening.blogspot.com/
Sunday, December 6, 2009
Time left over for life: A review of The NEW Low-Maintenance Garden
There have been years in which I spent 20 hours a week weeding, planting, watering and pruning in my garden. The garden was ablaze with color, the kitchen sink was filled with vegetables and I would proudly lead guests on a tour—whether they wanted to go or not.
Then there have been other years in which I have spent a fraction of that time tending my garden. In those years the weeds sprouted in paths, roses had blackspot and I prayed for rain when guests were coming so I could cower inside and hide the squalor that was my garden.
So although I love to garden, the appeal of the title The NEW Low-Maintenance Garden was fairly strong for me. After all, life does sometimes intrude on my best intentions and, let’s face it, I’m not getting any younger. My kind of high-maintenance gardening requires stamina. And a strong back.
The NEW Low-Maintenance Garden’s author, Valerie Easton, insists that low-maintenance gardening is not “gardening lite” or the same as overnight gardens installed by housing development ground crews.
New low-maintenance gardens are “easy to live with and live in,” writes Easton. “They’re thoughtful places for outdoor living as well as plants, tailored to the needs of the people who create and use them. New low-maintenance gardens might be rich in flowers for cutting, feature places for kids to play, consist of a few pots or a luscious vegetable garden.”
Easton explains that a truly low-maintenance garden must be guided by an intentional design that incorporates hardscaping as well as plants. Having a plan—and sticking to it—minimizes the time-stresses of haphazard gardening practices that make for more work. That means relinquishing the habit of dragging home every appealing plant from the nursery and spending the rest of the day carrying it around the garden to find it a home.
Other low-maintenance practices Easton advocates are just basic good gardening practices—generously amending the soil, weeding early and often, working with nature by putting the right plant in the right place and practicing good garden sanitation habits. But there are also plenty of other low-maintenance tips that are useful, such as planting closely together to minimize the opportunity for weeds to get a foothold and adopting an acceptance for something short of perfection. Easton also offers plant suggestions and her featured gardeners list their own low-maintenance gardening tips.
Easton lives in Washington State where she writes for the Pacific Northwest Magazine of the Seattle Times. Her West Coast experience is evident since most of the gardens and gardeners featured as low-maintenance examples are in Washington, Oregon and California, slighting us Right Coasters a bit.
Some of the gardens featured rely heavily on hardscaping and accoutrements, with hardly a plant in site. They appear more like architectural examples of outdoor rooms than garden rooms and probably won’t appeal to the people who actually like plants in their gardens.
Fortunately, there are many examples of low-maintenance gardens with gorgeous plant collections. San Francisco designer Jeong Lee’s succulent garden is as sumptuous as it is surprising. David Pfeiffer, a Seattle-based landscape architect, has an enviable kitchen garden that looks anything but low maintenance. The author’s own garden, mixing flowers, greenery and edibles, will also appeal to plant lovers.
The book has extras that make it particularly useful. Garden book hoarders should hide their credit cards before reading because each section in the book is followed with a list of garden book resources. If your budget or shelf space limits your garden book buying inclinations, you’ll be grateful for the list of online resources provided—something many book writers leave out for fear of the websites disappearing.
The NEW Low-Maintenance Garden is ultimately about having a plan that fits with your lifestyle and limitations. Design-a-phobic gardeners should run the other way—fast. This is not the book for you unless you get some garden therapy. But for the rest of us, there are good low-maintenance lessons to take to heart and implement before exhaustion, age or both require tilling under our high-maintenance gardens altogether.
You can reach Robin at gardeningexaminer@gmail.com and can follow her on Twitter at @RobinRipley
I thought you guys might like this:
http://www.examiner.com/x-346-Gardening-Examiner~y2009m12d6-Time-left-over-for-life-A-review-of-The-NEW-LowMaintenance-Garden?cid=exrss-Gardening-Examiner
Then there have been other years in which I have spent a fraction of that time tending my garden. In those years the weeds sprouted in paths, roses had blackspot and I prayed for rain when guests were coming so I could cower inside and hide the squalor that was my garden.
So although I love to garden, the appeal of the title The NEW Low-Maintenance Garden was fairly strong for me. After all, life does sometimes intrude on my best intentions and, let’s face it, I’m not getting any younger. My kind of high-maintenance gardening requires stamina. And a strong back.
The NEW Low-Maintenance Garden’s author, Valerie Easton, insists that low-maintenance gardening is not “gardening lite” or the same as overnight gardens installed by housing development ground crews.
New low-maintenance gardens are “easy to live with and live in,” writes Easton. “They’re thoughtful places for outdoor living as well as plants, tailored to the needs of the people who create and use them. New low-maintenance gardens might be rich in flowers for cutting, feature places for kids to play, consist of a few pots or a luscious vegetable garden.”
Easton explains that a truly low-maintenance garden must be guided by an intentional design that incorporates hardscaping as well as plants. Having a plan—and sticking to it—minimizes the time-stresses of haphazard gardening practices that make for more work. That means relinquishing the habit of dragging home every appealing plant from the nursery and spending the rest of the day carrying it around the garden to find it a home.
Other low-maintenance practices Easton advocates are just basic good gardening practices—generously amending the soil, weeding early and often, working with nature by putting the right plant in the right place and practicing good garden sanitation habits. But there are also plenty of other low-maintenance tips that are useful, such as planting closely together to minimize the opportunity for weeds to get a foothold and adopting an acceptance for something short of perfection. Easton also offers plant suggestions and her featured gardeners list their own low-maintenance gardening tips.
Easton lives in Washington State where she writes for the Pacific Northwest Magazine of the Seattle Times. Her West Coast experience is evident since most of the gardens and gardeners featured as low-maintenance examples are in Washington, Oregon and California, slighting us Right Coasters a bit.
Some of the gardens featured rely heavily on hardscaping and accoutrements, with hardly a plant in site. They appear more like architectural examples of outdoor rooms than garden rooms and probably won’t appeal to the people who actually like plants in their gardens.
Fortunately, there are many examples of low-maintenance gardens with gorgeous plant collections. San Francisco designer Jeong Lee’s succulent garden is as sumptuous as it is surprising. David Pfeiffer, a Seattle-based landscape architect, has an enviable kitchen garden that looks anything but low maintenance. The author’s own garden, mixing flowers, greenery and edibles, will also appeal to plant lovers.
The book has extras that make it particularly useful. Garden book hoarders should hide their credit cards before reading because each section in the book is followed with a list of garden book resources. If your budget or shelf space limits your garden book buying inclinations, you’ll be grateful for the list of online resources provided—something many book writers leave out for fear of the websites disappearing.
The NEW Low-Maintenance Garden is ultimately about having a plan that fits with your lifestyle and limitations. Design-a-phobic gardeners should run the other way—fast. This is not the book for you unless you get some garden therapy. But for the rest of us, there are good low-maintenance lessons to take to heart and implement before exhaustion, age or both require tilling under our high-maintenance gardens altogether.
You can reach Robin at gardeningexaminer@gmail.com and can follow her on Twitter at @RobinRipley
I thought you guys might like this:
http://www.examiner.com/x-346-Gardening-Examiner~y2009m12d6-Time-left-over-for-life-A-review-of-The-NEW-LowMaintenance-Garden?cid=exrss-Gardening-Examiner
Wednesday, December 2, 2009
Tulip Gardens: Planting & Growing Tulips
Planting tulips is certainly a beautiful experience, you have several gorgeous colors to choose from when it comes to tulip gardens. Growing tulips will certainly make you the envy of the neighbourhood considering the beauty they provide. Below you will find information that will help you understand when to grow tulips, how to grow tulips and more.
How To Grow Tulips
Growing tulips is quite easy once you find the ample space for planting tulips in the fall.
» Tulip gardens also require well drained soil in order to grow well, thereafter you just need to sit back and wait for these beautiful flowers to blossom.
» You will have several things to keep in mind when planting tulips, when you planting tulips see to it that you have a planting depth of 10cm. Its best to dig a larger hole than required so that you can add manure and a thick layer of soil before planting tulips, this will help a great deal when growing tulips.
» It is also best if you remove any tulips that are three years old, if not see to it that the tulip bed is well fertilized.
» Another very important point when you grow tulips,is that you should never buy cheap bulbs as you will not get a very good blossom due to it, you rather spend a little extra and be sure you will have beautiful tulips in the end.
When To Grow Tulips
The perfect time to grow tulips is certainly during fall as the bulbs need a cold climate to get accustomed to in order to blossom well in spring. However if for some reason you miss your chance for planting tulips in the fall, that is completely fine. Without a doubt ideally tulip gardens grow well in fall but if extra attention is given to the bulbs then there is no reason for you not to have a good blossom outside fall. If you purchase your bulbs before you need to plant them be sure to refrigerate them and not leave them out, or they will dry out before you can plant them. Remember bulbs need at least 12 weeks in refrigerator storage so that it can complete its biochemical process before it is planted. After this is complete you will need to plant your tulip bulbs in early spring, so you need to get your timing perfect for growing tulips. The day that you start planting tulips make sure that the weather is fine and that the ground is moist, after planting your bulbs add a layer of mulch to keep in the moisture. This will help greatly when you grow tulips and will contribute to a perfect blossom.
Tulip Gardening Tips
» When designing your tulip gardens, be sure to pick an area in your garden that receives frequent sunlight and is partially shaded.
» When you allocating the areas in your garden for these bulbs, always work out how many bulbs you will require for your tulip gardens and whether or not you require dwarf bulbs for certain areas.
» After all this is done you will have to decide on whether or not you would the same colors in one particular area or would you rather mix and match, this will depend on you and what works for you.
It is important to follow the procedure in growing tulips to get the best results, you will release how amazing it is to grow tulips after spending time in your tulip gardens and admire the beauty.
Growing tulips will certainly take some planning, but at the end of the day it is quiet easy to grow and the end result is spectacular.
I really enjoyed this guy's comment on http://www.home-gardening-tips.com/2009/10/10/tulip-gardens-planting-growing-tulips/#more-491 so I thought I'd share it with you nice people.
How To Grow Tulips
Growing tulips is quite easy once you find the ample space for planting tulips in the fall.
» Tulip gardens also require well drained soil in order to grow well, thereafter you just need to sit back and wait for these beautiful flowers to blossom.
» You will have several things to keep in mind when planting tulips, when you planting tulips see to it that you have a planting depth of 10cm. Its best to dig a larger hole than required so that you can add manure and a thick layer of soil before planting tulips, this will help a great deal when growing tulips.
» It is also best if you remove any tulips that are three years old, if not see to it that the tulip bed is well fertilized.
» Another very important point when you grow tulips,is that you should never buy cheap bulbs as you will not get a very good blossom due to it, you rather spend a little extra and be sure you will have beautiful tulips in the end.
When To Grow Tulips
The perfect time to grow tulips is certainly during fall as the bulbs need a cold climate to get accustomed to in order to blossom well in spring. However if for some reason you miss your chance for planting tulips in the fall, that is completely fine. Without a doubt ideally tulip gardens grow well in fall but if extra attention is given to the bulbs then there is no reason for you not to have a good blossom outside fall. If you purchase your bulbs before you need to plant them be sure to refrigerate them and not leave them out, or they will dry out before you can plant them. Remember bulbs need at least 12 weeks in refrigerator storage so that it can complete its biochemical process before it is planted. After this is complete you will need to plant your tulip bulbs in early spring, so you need to get your timing perfect for growing tulips. The day that you start planting tulips make sure that the weather is fine and that the ground is moist, after planting your bulbs add a layer of mulch to keep in the moisture. This will help greatly when you grow tulips and will contribute to a perfect blossom.
Tulip Gardening Tips
» When designing your tulip gardens, be sure to pick an area in your garden that receives frequent sunlight and is partially shaded.
» When you allocating the areas in your garden for these bulbs, always work out how many bulbs you will require for your tulip gardens and whether or not you require dwarf bulbs for certain areas.
» After all this is done you will have to decide on whether or not you would the same colors in one particular area or would you rather mix and match, this will depend on you and what works for you.
It is important to follow the procedure in growing tulips to get the best results, you will release how amazing it is to grow tulips after spending time in your tulip gardens and admire the beauty.
Growing tulips will certainly take some planning, but at the end of the day it is quiet easy to grow and the end result is spectacular.
I really enjoyed this guy's comment on http://www.home-gardening-tips.com/2009/10/10/tulip-gardens-planting-growing-tulips/#more-491 so I thought I'd share it with you nice people.
Thursday, November 26, 2009
Learn How to Create Beautiful Hypertufa Garden Art Objects Each & Every Time
This eBook Has Everything You'll Need to Know to Successfully Produce Long-Lasting
Beautiful Hypertufa Creations That Will Withstand All Climates Year In and Year Out
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Beautiful Hypertufa Creations That Will Withstand All Climates Year In and Year Out
Interested in this product? Then go to http://baeb6bqplx9z2se7g67-jz3k0x.hop.clickbank.net/?tid=GAR2 to find out more.
Tuesday, November 24, 2009
Man Discovers Secrets of the Bonsai Masters
Who Else Wants to Discover the Step by Step Secrets the Bonsai Masters Use to Create Stunning Bonsai Trees - With Very Little Work?
Interested in this product? Then go to http://1bb7byovoxen1mb2coyutl1p68.hop.clickbank.net/?tid=GAR1to find out more.
Interested in this product? Then go to http://1bb7byovoxen1mb2coyutl1p68.hop.clickbank.net/?tid=GAR1to find out more.
Monday, November 23, 2009
My Grandfather's #1 Tomato Secret
"One-Armed Farmer Reveals The Most Over-Looked Secret That Grows You Mouth-Watering Organic Tomatoes In Half The Time, With Less Effort, And Doubles Your Harvest..."
Without Losing Your Plants To Disease, Using Steroids or Damaging Chemical Additives, All With Simple Age-Old Gardening Wisdom!
Interested in this product? Then go to http://0e4f5-sri79r3za5i6t95h0k1c.hop.clickbank.net/?tid=VEGGARto find out more.
Without Losing Your Plants To Disease, Using Steroids or Damaging Chemical Additives, All With Simple Age-Old Gardening Wisdom!
Interested in this product? Then go to http://0e4f5-sri79r3za5i6t95h0k1c.hop.clickbank.net/?tid=VEGGARto find out more.
Sunday, November 22, 2009
What Makes The Complete Grape Growing System So Unique?
The high quality, 120 page e-book, filled with literally tons of actual photographs taken in my vineyards AND a choice audio product, takes you by the hand and guides you through the complete process of growing grapes - every step of the way; even if you have NEVER grown grapes before!
It shows you how to choose the best site location for growing grapes
It shows you how to prepare the soil before planting grapes
It shows you exactly how to treat your cuttings before planting them;
It even shows you how to make your own cuttings and how to propagate new grape vines!
You will learn how to construct a trellis system that suits your needs
It explains the importance of pruning a grape vine. It even shows you EXACTLY how it should be done. There's ton's of pictures to guide you; from the first year of pruning a grape vine to pruning a mature vine. It even shows you how to prune a never before pruned grape vine.
This Grape Growing System will teach you how to train your grape vine to the trellis wires or even an arbour within one year from planting it - this is something not many grape growers achieve!
Struggling with diseases on your grape vines? Learn how to manipulate the vine and make the vine more diseases resistant - even without using chemical sprays.
How about knowing how to develop a grape vine frame work that will make future manipulations and pruning a breeze? This system shows you exactly how it's done!
Growing grapes in the tropics or extremely cold climates? This system will help you succeed growing grapes under abnormal climate conditions as well.
You've heard the so called grape growers say: "Grape vines produce their first grapes after 4 years." Using this system, will get your grape vines in production after only two years - that is in half the time!
And much more ...
Interested in this product? Then go to http://0edfe8mhey6v5zb9cjy6y8yjf-.hop.clickbank.net/?tid=GARPRO to find out more.
It shows you how to choose the best site location for growing grapes
It shows you how to prepare the soil before planting grapes
It shows you exactly how to treat your cuttings before planting them;
It even shows you how to make your own cuttings and how to propagate new grape vines!
You will learn how to construct a trellis system that suits your needs
It explains the importance of pruning a grape vine. It even shows you EXACTLY how it should be done. There's ton's of pictures to guide you; from the first year of pruning a grape vine to pruning a mature vine. It even shows you how to prune a never before pruned grape vine.
This Grape Growing System will teach you how to train your grape vine to the trellis wires or even an arbour within one year from planting it - this is something not many grape growers achieve!
Struggling with diseases on your grape vines? Learn how to manipulate the vine and make the vine more diseases resistant - even without using chemical sprays.
How about knowing how to develop a grape vine frame work that will make future manipulations and pruning a breeze? This system shows you exactly how it's done!
Growing grapes in the tropics or extremely cold climates? This system will help you succeed growing grapes under abnormal climate conditions as well.
You've heard the so called grape growers say: "Grape vines produce their first grapes after 4 years." Using this system, will get your grape vines in production after only two years - that is in half the time!
And much more ...
Interested in this product? Then go to http://0edfe8mhey6v5zb9cjy6y8yjf-.hop.clickbank.net/?tid=GARPRO to find out more.
Friday, November 20, 2009
In The Garden
Get active and plant your own vegetable garden!
Growing your own vegetables will not only teach you about the marvels and bounty of nature, but you will also get fresh air, exercise and some sunshine (that's a good source of Vitamin D). So, get the whole family to join in the fun. Here is a step-by-step guide to create your own little veggie patch!
1.) Equipment:
Rake, Fork, Spade, Watering Can, Wheelbarrow and Gloves
2.) Compost
The secret to a happy garden is healthy soil. Set up a compost heap outside where you throw all your organic waste matter - vegetables, peels, egg shells, tea bags, vegetable leaves, mealie cobs, weeds etc.
This means that you will be recycling within your own home. You will be using these waste materials to produce healthy food for your family!
3.) Positioning
Choose a sunny spot for your vegetable garden. 6 hours of sun per day is ideal. the ideal size for a bed is 1 x 2 metres.
If you have limited space, you can use an old car tyre to protect your bed.
If you are serious about producing lots of vegetables throughout the year, you will need 4 searate beds. Mark your bed with four sticks and some string or use bricks / stones to make a border.
4.) Soil preparation
Dig out the topsoil (darker more nutritios soil) and keep to one side.
Dig out the subsoil and keep the other side.
Dig your trench about half a metre deep.
Cover the bottom with newspaper.
Alternate layers of soil with layers of fresh organic matter until the trench is almost full.
Replace the topsoil, making the level slightly higher than before.
Topsoil
Subsoil
Organic Matter
Subsoil
Organic Matter
Newspaper
Note: The soil will sink down as the material decomposes.
5.) Crop rotation
Rotating crops will maintain the balance of nutrients in the soil. There are 3 main groups of vegetables which should be rotated.
A: Legumes: Peas and Beans
Grain: Maize
B: Leaf crops: Lettuce, Spinach and Cabbages
C: Root crops: Beetroot, Carrots, Leeks, Onions and Potatoes
6.) Planting time!
Rake the bed till smooth and level.
Cover bed with a thin layer of dry grass or leaves (mulch). This will conserve water, feed the soil and discourage weeds.
Decide what you want to plant, for example:
Plant 3 rows of Carrots 30cm apart. Plant the seeds 2 to 5cm apart in rows, 1cm deep and cover the soil.
Plant 3 rows of Beetroot 30cm apart. Plant the seeds at the same spacing but 2cm deep and cover with soil.
Plant your Potatoes in a seperate bed 60cm apart.
Plant seed potatoes that are beginning to sprout 20cm apart, 10cm deep and cover with soil. When the potato plants are 30cm tall, ridge the soil up around them. The potatoes will develop in the ridged-up soil.
WATERING AND WEEDING: Don't forget to water your vegetable garedn daily and to weed it regularly!

Growing your own vegetables will not only teach you about the marvels and bounty of nature, but you will also get fresh air, exercise and some sunshine (that's a good source of Vitamin D). So, get the whole family to join in the fun. Here is a step-by-step guide to create your own little veggie patch!
1.) Equipment:
Rake, Fork, Spade, Watering Can, Wheelbarrow and Gloves
2.) Compost
The secret to a happy garden is healthy soil. Set up a compost heap outside where you throw all your organic waste matter - vegetables, peels, egg shells, tea bags, vegetable leaves, mealie cobs, weeds etc.
This means that you will be recycling within your own home. You will be using these waste materials to produce healthy food for your family!
3.) Positioning
Choose a sunny spot for your vegetable garden. 6 hours of sun per day is ideal. the ideal size for a bed is 1 x 2 metres.
If you have limited space, you can use an old car tyre to protect your bed.
If you are serious about producing lots of vegetables throughout the year, you will need 4 searate beds. Mark your bed with four sticks and some string or use bricks / stones to make a border.
4.) Soil preparation
Dig out the topsoil (darker more nutritios soil) and keep to one side.
Dig out the subsoil and keep the other side.
Dig your trench about half a metre deep.
Cover the bottom with newspaper.
Alternate layers of soil with layers of fresh organic matter until the trench is almost full.
Replace the topsoil, making the level slightly higher than before.
Topsoil
Subsoil
Organic Matter
Subsoil
Organic Matter
Newspaper
Note: The soil will sink down as the material decomposes.
5.) Crop rotation
Rotating crops will maintain the balance of nutrients in the soil. There are 3 main groups of vegetables which should be rotated.
A: Legumes: Peas and Beans
Grain: Maize
B: Leaf crops: Lettuce, Spinach and Cabbages
C: Root crops: Beetroot, Carrots, Leeks, Onions and Potatoes
6.) Planting time!
Rake the bed till smooth and level.
Cover bed with a thin layer of dry grass or leaves (mulch). This will conserve water, feed the soil and discourage weeds.
Decide what you want to plant, for example:
Plant 3 rows of Carrots 30cm apart. Plant the seeds 2 to 5cm apart in rows, 1cm deep and cover the soil.
Plant 3 rows of Beetroot 30cm apart. Plant the seeds at the same spacing but 2cm deep and cover with soil.
Plant your Potatoes in a seperate bed 60cm apart.
Plant seed potatoes that are beginning to sprout 20cm apart, 10cm deep and cover with soil. When the potato plants are 30cm tall, ridge the soil up around them. The potatoes will develop in the ridged-up soil.
WATERING AND WEEDING: Don't forget to water your vegetable garedn daily and to weed it regularly!

Backyard Greenhouse Basics
By Anne Clarke
Having a greenhouse in one's own backyard is a hobby that will provide hours of enjoyment -or work, depending on how the challenges of gardening are viewed. For those with dreams of spending days blissfully working in the garden or greenhouse they may be in for a rude awakening once the greenhouse kit arrives and they realize the amount of work that goes into maintaining a successful greenhouse.
Like most hobbies there can be moments of sheer frustration but the reward can definitely outweigh the effort. Knowing the basics of owning a greenhouse can save the gardener multiple trips to the garden store and save many unsuspecting plants' lives. Before the beginner greenhouse owner wastes money on plants that will die if the greenhouse is not set up properly, he or she should take the time to learn a little about the ins and outs of greenhouses.
Greenhouses create mini ecosystems. Much like the larger system we know as our planet, heat from the sun becomes trapped and gives rise to the warm temperatures needed for plants to grow. The sunlight, heat, moisture, nutrient, and gas levels must all be within certain ranges to keep the plants healthy and growing. A backyard greenhouse will need things like sunlight, ventilation, heaters, and an irrigation system for it to be a success.
Let's start with the creation of the greenhouse itself. The site of the greenhouse should be a sunny location in the yard. The plants need the light to grow and to keep the climate within warm enough. The size of the greenhouse will depend on the gardener's budget. It's easy to fill up a greenhouse so buying as large as one can afford would be wise- it's hard to expand or put an addition onto a greenhouse.
For the most part no foundation is needed, but if the greenhouse is intended to be a permanent structure then a gravel floor is nice. Concrete or pavers can also be used, but a means for drainage will be needed- so gravel is usually the best bet. Also if concrete is used make sure the floor has some texture as it will often be wet and slippery.
Greenhouse kits make it easy to build the actual structure. Getting the measurements and dimensions correct when building the greenhouse from scratch can make for a frustrating weekend or two. The greenhouse needs to be properly sealed and able to withstand the local weather. Kits can be bought online and come in several sizes.
If the local weather doesn't include snow then cheaper polyethylene film greenhouses will do just fine. If snow and extreme weather take place during certain times of the year then a polycarbonate greenhouse will be a better choice. Most of the polycarbonate greenhouse kits have frames that allow the panels to snap right in making assembly a breeze.
Once the greenhouse is assembled the work is not over yet. Those who live in climates with cold winters will need to provide heat during those months so that the temperature inside the greenhouse never goes below forty degrees or so- depending on the type of plants being grown. Low cost heating systems with thermostats can be installed or for those looking to reduce costs even more; a good old-fashioned thermometer, space heater and daily monitoring can also work.
Ventilation is also key to maintaining the balance of oxygen and carbon dioxide in the greenhouse. Without ventilation the air can become stagnant and the temperatures can become too hot. Those using space heaters must be extra diligent about ventilation. Most greenhouses have vents built in, but a fan will also help keep air moving.
Irrigation is another critical component to a greenhouse. It's true that a hose can be dragged in and out every day to water the plants, but the ease of installing a drip system or a mini sprinkler system makes it seem silly to deal with a hose. The systems can easily be setup on a timer and the amount of water each plant receives can be precisely controlled.
In the warm summer months sometimes a fan and adequate ventilation won't do the trick. Greenhouse shades are available to help cool the structure during the hottest hours of the day. Those who have a larger budget can always spring for an air conditioner, but the cost of cooling a see-through structure can be astronomical even if it's a small space.
After all the systems are in place the plants can finally be brought in. Some greenhouse kits come with shelving, in other kits the shelves will need to be purchased separately. The gardener will quickly learn which accessories are missing. The chances of a successful greenhouse are much greater when the gardener is prepared and has some knowledge on how the greenhouse actually works. Taking the time to learn the basics will make the hobby more enjoyable and produce healthy flowers and vegetables for years to come.
Anne Clarke writes numerous articles for Web sites on gardening, parenting, fashion, and home decor. Her background also includes teaching, gardening, and fashion. For more of her useful articles on gardening, please visit Greenhouse Kits, supplier of greenhouses and greenhouse systems.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Anne_Clarke
Greenhouse Kits: http://www.orchidgreenhouse.com/
Having a greenhouse in one's own backyard is a hobby that will provide hours of enjoyment -or work, depending on how the challenges of gardening are viewed. For those with dreams of spending days blissfully working in the garden or greenhouse they may be in for a rude awakening once the greenhouse kit arrives and they realize the amount of work that goes into maintaining a successful greenhouse.
Like most hobbies there can be moments of sheer frustration but the reward can definitely outweigh the effort. Knowing the basics of owning a greenhouse can save the gardener multiple trips to the garden store and save many unsuspecting plants' lives. Before the beginner greenhouse owner wastes money on plants that will die if the greenhouse is not set up properly, he or she should take the time to learn a little about the ins and outs of greenhouses.
Greenhouses create mini ecosystems. Much like the larger system we know as our planet, heat from the sun becomes trapped and gives rise to the warm temperatures needed for plants to grow. The sunlight, heat, moisture, nutrient, and gas levels must all be within certain ranges to keep the plants healthy and growing. A backyard greenhouse will need things like sunlight, ventilation, heaters, and an irrigation system for it to be a success.
Let's start with the creation of the greenhouse itself. The site of the greenhouse should be a sunny location in the yard. The plants need the light to grow and to keep the climate within warm enough. The size of the greenhouse will depend on the gardener's budget. It's easy to fill up a greenhouse so buying as large as one can afford would be wise- it's hard to expand or put an addition onto a greenhouse.
For the most part no foundation is needed, but if the greenhouse is intended to be a permanent structure then a gravel floor is nice. Concrete or pavers can also be used, but a means for drainage will be needed- so gravel is usually the best bet. Also if concrete is used make sure the floor has some texture as it will often be wet and slippery.
Greenhouse kits make it easy to build the actual structure. Getting the measurements and dimensions correct when building the greenhouse from scratch can make for a frustrating weekend or two. The greenhouse needs to be properly sealed and able to withstand the local weather. Kits can be bought online and come in several sizes.
If the local weather doesn't include snow then cheaper polyethylene film greenhouses will do just fine. If snow and extreme weather take place during certain times of the year then a polycarbonate greenhouse will be a better choice. Most of the polycarbonate greenhouse kits have frames that allow the panels to snap right in making assembly a breeze.
Once the greenhouse is assembled the work is not over yet. Those who live in climates with cold winters will need to provide heat during those months so that the temperature inside the greenhouse never goes below forty degrees or so- depending on the type of plants being grown. Low cost heating systems with thermostats can be installed or for those looking to reduce costs even more; a good old-fashioned thermometer, space heater and daily monitoring can also work.
Ventilation is also key to maintaining the balance of oxygen and carbon dioxide in the greenhouse. Without ventilation the air can become stagnant and the temperatures can become too hot. Those using space heaters must be extra diligent about ventilation. Most greenhouses have vents built in, but a fan will also help keep air moving.
Irrigation is another critical component to a greenhouse. It's true that a hose can be dragged in and out every day to water the plants, but the ease of installing a drip system or a mini sprinkler system makes it seem silly to deal with a hose. The systems can easily be setup on a timer and the amount of water each plant receives can be precisely controlled.
In the warm summer months sometimes a fan and adequate ventilation won't do the trick. Greenhouse shades are available to help cool the structure during the hottest hours of the day. Those who have a larger budget can always spring for an air conditioner, but the cost of cooling a see-through structure can be astronomical even if it's a small space.
After all the systems are in place the plants can finally be brought in. Some greenhouse kits come with shelving, in other kits the shelves will need to be purchased separately. The gardener will quickly learn which accessories are missing. The chances of a successful greenhouse are much greater when the gardener is prepared and has some knowledge on how the greenhouse actually works. Taking the time to learn the basics will make the hobby more enjoyable and produce healthy flowers and vegetables for years to come.
Anne Clarke writes numerous articles for Web sites on gardening, parenting, fashion, and home decor. Her background also includes teaching, gardening, and fashion. For more of her useful articles on gardening, please visit Greenhouse Kits, supplier of greenhouses and greenhouse systems.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Anne_Clarke
Greenhouse Kits: http://www.orchidgreenhouse.com/
Hypertufa What??
A Versatile Concotion With Peat Moss For An Ingredient
Hypertufa ... A Mud-Pie Recipe That Is Used To Make All Sorts of Garden Art Objects
Hypertufa is perfect for making long lasting garden troughs (plant containers), fake rocks and boulders, stepping stones, wonderfully whimisical garden spheres and all sorts of decorative garden accents. Smooth it over a form or mold, let it properly cure (dry) and you’ll have a very durable DIY garden art treasure for years to come.
Exactly what is it? Hypertufa (pronounced hyper-toofa) is the term used for a type of artificial stone. It was first created in the mid 19th century by mixing sand, peat, various volcanic aggregates and cement. It’s relatively lightweight compared to stone or concrete and no matter how cold your winter temps may be, if properly cured, is freeze proof.
Hypertufa was concocted to be used as a substitute for the natural volcanic rock called Tufa. Tufa has been used for making Alpine style planting troughs. Unfortunately, it is not readily available anymore.
Most deposits have been depleted and it is increasingly difficult to find. I've read that there are only two deposits left in the United Kingdom, with a site in Wales having the best quality; there is some in East Germany; there are a few deposits left in the United States; and Canada has an excellent deposit located in Brisco, BC.
** Are you looking for hypertufa projects and recipes and not a 'tufa overview??
NO PROBLEM! Just click this link to go down to the Click Here!">
Hypertufa ... A Mud-Pie Recipe That Is Used To Make All Sorts of Garden Art Objects
Hypertufa is perfect for making long lasting garden troughs (plant containers), fake rocks and boulders, stepping stones, wonderfully whimisical garden spheres and all sorts of decorative garden accents. Smooth it over a form or mold, let it properly cure (dry) and you’ll have a very durable DIY garden art treasure for years to come.
Exactly what is it? Hypertufa (pronounced hyper-toofa) is the term used for a type of artificial stone. It was first created in the mid 19th century by mixing sand, peat, various volcanic aggregates and cement. It’s relatively lightweight compared to stone or concrete and no matter how cold your winter temps may be, if properly cured, is freeze proof.
Hypertufa was concocted to be used as a substitute for the natural volcanic rock called Tufa. Tufa has been used for making Alpine style planting troughs. Unfortunately, it is not readily available anymore.
Most deposits have been depleted and it is increasingly difficult to find. I've read that there are only two deposits left in the United Kingdom, with a site in Wales having the best quality; there is some in East Germany; there are a few deposits left in the United States; and Canada has an excellent deposit located in Brisco, BC.
** Are you looking for hypertufa projects and recipes and not a 'tufa overview??
NO PROBLEM! Just click this link to go down to the Click Here!">
Gardening Proverbs
"As the garden grows so does the gardener."
"Friends are flowers than never fade."
"From tiny acorns mighty oaks grow."
"A garden is a work of art in progress."
"Reap what you sow"
"As fresh as a daisy"
"Can't see the wood for the trees."
"Digging a hole for yourself."
"Don't make a mountain out of a molehill."
"The grass is always greener on the other side."
"Stop and smell the roses."
"Friends are flowers than never fade."
"From tiny acorns mighty oaks grow."
"A garden is a work of art in progress."
"Reap what you sow"
"As fresh as a daisy"
"Can't see the wood for the trees."
"Digging a hole for yourself."
"Don't make a mountain out of a molehill."
"The grass is always greener on the other side."
"Stop and smell the roses."
4 Gardening Lessons Revealed: Planting Methods, Tools, Crop Rotation & Clothing
by: John Parker
1. Planting Methods: There are several methods for planting.
Picking any of these methods depends on the vegetable, the size of your garden, and your fondness. Three methods of planting, namely, single rows, wide rows, and hills are clarified as follows:
A) Single Rows: In this method, seeds are sown in rows or lines that are spaced equal distances apart. The distances between the rows and between the seeds within the rows differ from vegetable to vegetable. If you want the rows to be straight, which gives a pleasant appearance to your garden, stretch a string between two stakes and sow the seeds along it. If you think this is too much work, use a stick to mark a line on the ground and try to make the line as straight as possible. With some training, you will get it straight.
B) Wide Rows: In wide row planting, seeds are sprinkled at equal spacing in both directions over a wide area. The width of the row varies from 6 to 16 inches. The row's width is limited by your arm's reach to the area in the middle of the row while standing at the edges. We find that wide rows are convenient and productive for peas and beans. In addition to giving high yield per unit area, they cut down on weeds. Wide rows are also good for starting leaf vegetables like lettuce and spinach. When the seedlings emerge, they can be thinned and transplanted elsewhere. Double rows are a special form of wide rows.
C) Hills: In hill planting, 3 to 5 seeds are sown close to each other. They need not be sown on a formed hill, as the name implies.
This method is used for example when planting zucchini and cucumbers.
2. Gardening Tools: There are many gardening tools available on the market today. The basic tools you'll need are a shovel, trowel, steel rake, tomato cages, and a water hose or can. The shovel is used to till the soil, mix potting soil, move soil around, and cut the weeds if they grow big. Some gardeners use a fork instead of a shovel to till the soil, but we don't.
The choice is yours. The trowel is used for cultivating the weeds, transplanting the seedlings, mixing soil or fertilizers, and filling containers with soil. The steel rake is used to grade the soil and to compact the soil over the seeds. Tomato cages are indispensable for supporting tomato plants. You can also use them to support running plants such as cucumbers and peas. Without them the plants will collapse on the ground and their fruit will get into contact with the soil and eventually decay. A hose or a can is used to water the plants in the garden and within containers.
3. Crop Rotation: Crop rotation is the practice of planting each vegetable in a different location each year. The advantages of crop rotation are:
A) The chances of transmitting diseases and insects to next year's crop are very much reduced. Certain diseases and insects attack certain vegetables. These diseases and insects move from the plants to the soil, where they winter. If the same vegetable is planted in the same spot the following year, the diseases and insects will surface from the soil and attack the new plants once again.
B) Each vegetable absorbs trace amounts of specific minerals from the soil. If the same vegetable is planted in the same spot year after year, the minerals the vegetable needs to grow healthy plants will be depleted, resulting in a meagre harvest.
C) The roots of legumes (peas and beans) have bacteria that soak up nitrogen from the air and fix it on the roots of the plants and in the soil. To take advantage of the nitrogen they fix in the soil, the legumes should be followed by a leafy vegetable, such as lettuce and or spinach, which both need nitrogen-rich soil. This is one of the techniques organic growers use to grow vegetables without the use of chemical fertilizers. It may be impractical to rotate every crop each year if your garden is small.
This difficulty can be overcome by taking the following measures:
(1) choose disease-resistant vegetable varieties, (2) keep your garden clean of rubbish, and (3) watch for insects and diseases. If a plant becomes teeming with insects, pick them by hand; if a plant is infected by a disease, pull it from the ground and dispose of it.
4. Proper Gardening Clothing: In the course of gardening, your footwear and clothes are likely to be soiled. You walk on dirt and or mud, your clothes make contact with plant leaves and stems, and your hands are soiled. You are also exposed to the sun. Your shoes accumulate mud and will soil the floor if you walk directly into the house. Therefore, you should have a pair of aged shoes set aside for gardening. Put them on before going into the garden and take them off before entering the house. Leave them in the garage or put them in a bag until you use them again.
Also, have special clothes for the garden. If you don't, your ordinary clothes will be soiled no matter how careful you are. To protect your hands and fingernails from collecting dirt, use a good pair of garden gloves. Some are washable and can be reused again and again...
Please feel free to forward a copy of the "Gardening Online Newsletter" to any of your friends and associates.
Happy Gardening,
About The Author
John Parker makes it easy to create beautiful gardens, quickly & easily. Learn the essential keys to lush, vibrant gardens. To receive your free gardening newsletter visit: http://www.how-to-grow-tomatoes.com/
1. Planting Methods: There are several methods for planting.
Picking any of these methods depends on the vegetable, the size of your garden, and your fondness. Three methods of planting, namely, single rows, wide rows, and hills are clarified as follows:
A) Single Rows: In this method, seeds are sown in rows or lines that are spaced equal distances apart. The distances between the rows and between the seeds within the rows differ from vegetable to vegetable. If you want the rows to be straight, which gives a pleasant appearance to your garden, stretch a string between two stakes and sow the seeds along it. If you think this is too much work, use a stick to mark a line on the ground and try to make the line as straight as possible. With some training, you will get it straight.
B) Wide Rows: In wide row planting, seeds are sprinkled at equal spacing in both directions over a wide area. The width of the row varies from 6 to 16 inches. The row's width is limited by your arm's reach to the area in the middle of the row while standing at the edges. We find that wide rows are convenient and productive for peas and beans. In addition to giving high yield per unit area, they cut down on weeds. Wide rows are also good for starting leaf vegetables like lettuce and spinach. When the seedlings emerge, they can be thinned and transplanted elsewhere. Double rows are a special form of wide rows.
C) Hills: In hill planting, 3 to 5 seeds are sown close to each other. They need not be sown on a formed hill, as the name implies.
This method is used for example when planting zucchini and cucumbers.
2. Gardening Tools: There are many gardening tools available on the market today. The basic tools you'll need are a shovel, trowel, steel rake, tomato cages, and a water hose or can. The shovel is used to till the soil, mix potting soil, move soil around, and cut the weeds if they grow big. Some gardeners use a fork instead of a shovel to till the soil, but we don't.
The choice is yours. The trowel is used for cultivating the weeds, transplanting the seedlings, mixing soil or fertilizers, and filling containers with soil. The steel rake is used to grade the soil and to compact the soil over the seeds. Tomato cages are indispensable for supporting tomato plants. You can also use them to support running plants such as cucumbers and peas. Without them the plants will collapse on the ground and their fruit will get into contact with the soil and eventually decay. A hose or a can is used to water the plants in the garden and within containers.
3. Crop Rotation: Crop rotation is the practice of planting each vegetable in a different location each year. The advantages of crop rotation are:
A) The chances of transmitting diseases and insects to next year's crop are very much reduced. Certain diseases and insects attack certain vegetables. These diseases and insects move from the plants to the soil, where they winter. If the same vegetable is planted in the same spot the following year, the diseases and insects will surface from the soil and attack the new plants once again.
B) Each vegetable absorbs trace amounts of specific minerals from the soil. If the same vegetable is planted in the same spot year after year, the minerals the vegetable needs to grow healthy plants will be depleted, resulting in a meagre harvest.
C) The roots of legumes (peas and beans) have bacteria that soak up nitrogen from the air and fix it on the roots of the plants and in the soil. To take advantage of the nitrogen they fix in the soil, the legumes should be followed by a leafy vegetable, such as lettuce and or spinach, which both need nitrogen-rich soil. This is one of the techniques organic growers use to grow vegetables without the use of chemical fertilizers. It may be impractical to rotate every crop each year if your garden is small.
This difficulty can be overcome by taking the following measures:
(1) choose disease-resistant vegetable varieties, (2) keep your garden clean of rubbish, and (3) watch for insects and diseases. If a plant becomes teeming with insects, pick them by hand; if a plant is infected by a disease, pull it from the ground and dispose of it.
4. Proper Gardening Clothing: In the course of gardening, your footwear and clothes are likely to be soiled. You walk on dirt and or mud, your clothes make contact with plant leaves and stems, and your hands are soiled. You are also exposed to the sun. Your shoes accumulate mud and will soil the floor if you walk directly into the house. Therefore, you should have a pair of aged shoes set aside for gardening. Put them on before going into the garden and take them off before entering the house. Leave them in the garage or put them in a bag until you use them again.
Also, have special clothes for the garden. If you don't, your ordinary clothes will be soiled no matter how careful you are. To protect your hands and fingernails from collecting dirt, use a good pair of garden gloves. Some are washable and can be reused again and again...
Please feel free to forward a copy of the "Gardening Online Newsletter" to any of your friends and associates.
Happy Gardening,
About The Author
John Parker makes it easy to create beautiful gardens, quickly & easily. Learn the essential keys to lush, vibrant gardens. To receive your free gardening newsletter visit: http://www.how-to-grow-tomatoes.com/
Guide to Basic Garden Tools for Greenhouse Gardening
by: Michelle Torres
No matter whether you’re greenhouse gardening or gardening outside in your yard, you need to have some specific garden tools. In fact, it’s next to impossible for you to have any kind of garden without tools. Sure, you could dig in the dirt with your bare hands, but why would you want to? Greenhouse gardening, in particular, requires you to have some specific equipment.
Types of Greenhouse Tools
The first type of tool you’ll need is something to cultivate the soil. This might include tools such as trowels, shovels, spades and other sorts of digging tools. For traditional gardening, you might need bigger tools than these, but for a greenhouse these hand tools are generally just fine.
The good news for greenhouse gardeners is that they can usually choose their soil and don’t often need power tools. There is no need to rent or purchase a tiller to break up the soil. You can choose the specific soil for the type of plants you want to grow in your greenhouse garden.
Depending on the plants you are growing, you might need some pruning tools, too. Things like pruning shears, lopping shears, hedge shears, pole pruners, and pruning saws are the sorts of equipment you’ll need for pruning. Here again, it depends on the kinds of plants you want to grow. These tools are especially useful for trees and shrubbery.
Since all of your plants need to have water in order to survive, you need tools to deliver moisture to the plants in your greenhouse. Unlike an outside garden, you can’t rely on the rain to provide that necessary moisture for your plants. Whether you use a simple watering can or an elaborate sprinkler system with a timer, you must have a way to deliver water to your plants in your greenhouse garden. While a watering can is more precise and cheaper, a sprinkler system can save you all sorts of time. Here again, it really is up to you as to the type of tool you want to use.
Having the right gardening tools will save you a lot of time, so you can spend less time working and more time enjoying the fruits of your labor. There are many gardeners who enjoy getting a little dirty while they plant their flowers, but extensive gardening is easier with even the most basic of gardening tools, like a rake, trough, or a hoe. Aside from the essential dirt, seeds and sunlight, your gardening tools will help you be a success in your greenhouse!
About The Author
Michelle Torres has nearly 20 years experience using and designing greenhouses and is an avid gardener. You can find additional useful greenhouse information at http://www.greenhousecatalog.com/
No matter whether you’re greenhouse gardening or gardening outside in your yard, you need to have some specific garden tools. In fact, it’s next to impossible for you to have any kind of garden without tools. Sure, you could dig in the dirt with your bare hands, but why would you want to? Greenhouse gardening, in particular, requires you to have some specific equipment.
Types of Greenhouse Tools
The first type of tool you’ll need is something to cultivate the soil. This might include tools such as trowels, shovels, spades and other sorts of digging tools. For traditional gardening, you might need bigger tools than these, but for a greenhouse these hand tools are generally just fine.
The good news for greenhouse gardeners is that they can usually choose their soil and don’t often need power tools. There is no need to rent or purchase a tiller to break up the soil. You can choose the specific soil for the type of plants you want to grow in your greenhouse garden.
Depending on the plants you are growing, you might need some pruning tools, too. Things like pruning shears, lopping shears, hedge shears, pole pruners, and pruning saws are the sorts of equipment you’ll need for pruning. Here again, it depends on the kinds of plants you want to grow. These tools are especially useful for trees and shrubbery.
Since all of your plants need to have water in order to survive, you need tools to deliver moisture to the plants in your greenhouse. Unlike an outside garden, you can’t rely on the rain to provide that necessary moisture for your plants. Whether you use a simple watering can or an elaborate sprinkler system with a timer, you must have a way to deliver water to your plants in your greenhouse garden. While a watering can is more precise and cheaper, a sprinkler system can save you all sorts of time. Here again, it really is up to you as to the type of tool you want to use.
Having the right gardening tools will save you a lot of time, so you can spend less time working and more time enjoying the fruits of your labor. There are many gardeners who enjoy getting a little dirty while they plant their flowers, but extensive gardening is easier with even the most basic of gardening tools, like a rake, trough, or a hoe. Aside from the essential dirt, seeds and sunlight, your gardening tools will help you be a success in your greenhouse!
About The Author
Michelle Torres has nearly 20 years experience using and designing greenhouses and is an avid gardener. You can find additional useful greenhouse information at http://www.greenhousecatalog.com/
Container Gardening
by: Timothy Samuel
Container Gardening Advice, Ideas Design and, Pictures. Whether you are getting up the nerve to try growing a few petunias, or are have a full fledged container garden vegetable farm, you'll find useful information here. What you need to know to get started container gardening. Making beautiful container gardens can be quick and easy of choosing a Container for your garden. Five flowering plants for sun even a laundry basket can make a great container garden. This approach dovetails nicely with my own philosophy which I call "Slacker Container Gardening " In a nutshell, in my container garden, the aim is not perfection, it's about gardening like you live and enjoying the process. Another important tenet of "Slacker Container Gardening," is to keep it guilt free. I want my container gardening to be a guilt-free zone. I will make mistakes, I'll even make some really ugly container gardens, which I'll either fix or kill, but either way, it's just a waste of time and energy to feel guilty about it. My one request is that someone reminds me of this philosophy in the middle of the summer, when I suddenly revert back to being a type A, container gardener. Potting soil a lightweight potting mix is needed for container gardening.
Gardening in containers is one of the most versatile and creative forms of garden design. Potting mix most container gardeners have found that soilless potting mix works best. Some helpful techniques, including choosing containers and growing media potting mix, selecting plants, and planting, fertilizing, and watering your container garden, are discussed in this publication. Styrofoam peanuts can be used in the bottom of the container rather than filling it fully with potting mix. Potting Soil A lightweight potting mix is needed for container gardening. Media A fairly lightweight potting mix is needed for container vegetable gardening. Most potting mixtures become compacted and plants become root-bound over time. Organic the ideal container medium must be porous to drain well but high enough in organic matter to hold water, because roots require both air and water. Packaged potting soil available at local garden centers may make a good container medium but be sure that it is not too high in organic matter. Organic fertilizers such as fish emulsion or blood meal can also be used if desired, but may be available too slowly for actively growing plants, or may develop sour aromas.
Container vegetable gardens guidelines for how to create container vegetable gardens for those with no yard. Container vegetable gardens are another great alternative for those that don't have access to back yards. Soils are best suited for vegetable container gardening. The primary keys to successfully growing vegetables in containers are to plant them in the proper-sized container and to keep them watered. Durability and Cost Pots that are porous may look more natural but can deteriorate quickly if consistently exposed to moisture and freezing temperatures. Wood are the most natural and blend into the garden seamlessly, while stoneware provides colors to the mix, plastic is less expansive but seemed to be odd in the natural setting.
One more thought:
Never reuse the same potting soil from the previous growing season because it may contain disease organisms. Most municipal water systems on the Front Range are from mountain sources which are excellent and cause few problems. However, water from wells and much of the Western Slope is often high in salts or carbonates which will cause some problems. Salt build-up is damaging to plants causing burned leaf edges, stunted growth, and fewer blooms. If saucers are used to catch drained water, empty them to prevent salt buildup. Kerry Smith , Extension Home Horticulture Specialist , Auburn University. Soil straight from the garden cannot be used because it will notdrain fast enough, resulting in too little air for the roots, and it pulls awayfrom the sides of the pot when dry. Decoration Pots of blooming petunias make the most austere entrance or sparsely decorated balcony or deck feel warm and inviting. Time-release fertilizer and automatic watering systems can reduce that time even more. Carefully selecting plants will result in a beautiful, yet functional, display with function. Doing so may cause fertilizer burn and kill your plants. If you are away a lot, consider an automatic drip emitter irrigation system. Do not add more than the recommended rate of any fertilizer, since this may cause fertilizer burn and kill the plants. Just because a little is good for the plants does not guarantee that a lot will be better.
For more garden tips go to http://www.teegoes.org/
About The Author
Timothy Samuel I live in Wilmington,De enjoy writing on many topics from food to travleing. And you hope my articles be enjoyable and helpfull to all.
Container Gardening Advice, Ideas Design and, Pictures. Whether you are getting up the nerve to try growing a few petunias, or are have a full fledged container garden vegetable farm, you'll find useful information here. What you need to know to get started container gardening. Making beautiful container gardens can be quick and easy of choosing a Container for your garden. Five flowering plants for sun even a laundry basket can make a great container garden. This approach dovetails nicely with my own philosophy which I call "Slacker Container Gardening " In a nutshell, in my container garden, the aim is not perfection, it's about gardening like you live and enjoying the process. Another important tenet of "Slacker Container Gardening," is to keep it guilt free. I want my container gardening to be a guilt-free zone. I will make mistakes, I'll even make some really ugly container gardens, which I'll either fix or kill, but either way, it's just a waste of time and energy to feel guilty about it. My one request is that someone reminds me of this philosophy in the middle of the summer, when I suddenly revert back to being a type A, container gardener. Potting soil a lightweight potting mix is needed for container gardening.
Gardening in containers is one of the most versatile and creative forms of garden design. Potting mix most container gardeners have found that soilless potting mix works best. Some helpful techniques, including choosing containers and growing media potting mix, selecting plants, and planting, fertilizing, and watering your container garden, are discussed in this publication. Styrofoam peanuts can be used in the bottom of the container rather than filling it fully with potting mix. Potting Soil A lightweight potting mix is needed for container gardening. Media A fairly lightweight potting mix is needed for container vegetable gardening. Most potting mixtures become compacted and plants become root-bound over time. Organic the ideal container medium must be porous to drain well but high enough in organic matter to hold water, because roots require both air and water. Packaged potting soil available at local garden centers may make a good container medium but be sure that it is not too high in organic matter. Organic fertilizers such as fish emulsion or blood meal can also be used if desired, but may be available too slowly for actively growing plants, or may develop sour aromas.
Container vegetable gardens guidelines for how to create container vegetable gardens for those with no yard. Container vegetable gardens are another great alternative for those that don't have access to back yards. Soils are best suited for vegetable container gardening. The primary keys to successfully growing vegetables in containers are to plant them in the proper-sized container and to keep them watered. Durability and Cost Pots that are porous may look more natural but can deteriorate quickly if consistently exposed to moisture and freezing temperatures. Wood are the most natural and blend into the garden seamlessly, while stoneware provides colors to the mix, plastic is less expansive but seemed to be odd in the natural setting.
One more thought:
Never reuse the same potting soil from the previous growing season because it may contain disease organisms. Most municipal water systems on the Front Range are from mountain sources which are excellent and cause few problems. However, water from wells and much of the Western Slope is often high in salts or carbonates which will cause some problems. Salt build-up is damaging to plants causing burned leaf edges, stunted growth, and fewer blooms. If saucers are used to catch drained water, empty them to prevent salt buildup. Kerry Smith , Extension Home Horticulture Specialist , Auburn University. Soil straight from the garden cannot be used because it will notdrain fast enough, resulting in too little air for the roots, and it pulls awayfrom the sides of the pot when dry. Decoration Pots of blooming petunias make the most austere entrance or sparsely decorated balcony or deck feel warm and inviting. Time-release fertilizer and automatic watering systems can reduce that time even more. Carefully selecting plants will result in a beautiful, yet functional, display with function. Doing so may cause fertilizer burn and kill your plants. If you are away a lot, consider an automatic drip emitter irrigation system. Do not add more than the recommended rate of any fertilizer, since this may cause fertilizer burn and kill the plants. Just because a little is good for the plants does not guarantee that a lot will be better.
For more garden tips go to http://www.teegoes.org/
About The Author
Timothy Samuel I live in Wilmington,De enjoy writing on many topics from food to travleing. And you hope my articles be enjoyable and helpfull to all.
Spring Flower Gardening
by: Linda Jenkinson
Spring is the time when nature and your garden awakes and comes alive after the long winter. That first spring flower or that first green leave is the sign that winter in coming to an end and that a new growing season has arrived.
Spring and Flower gardening is almost synonymous. Spring is the time to interplant perennials, shrubs, roses and plant or transplant your annuals.
It’s time to shape up your soil, loosen the mulch around your plants and prune your early blooming shrubs. Rake and remove leaves and debris from your garden. Without a good planting medium your flower garden will never be at its best.
Perennials will save you a lot of work in your flower garden. So keep perennials high on your list. These hardworking beauties eliminate yearly replanting and will still give you that spring and summer color that you are longing for. It’s best to choose varieties that don’t need a lot of staking or frequent division. Notorious sun lovers are daylilies, sedium, and speedwell. Plants like hosta, fern, sweet woodruff and columbine feel more at easy in the shadow.
Flower Bulbs add a splash of color to your spring garden. “Sprinkle” some crocuses, daffodils, and of course tulips between your flower beds. Flower bulbs are almost essential in a spring flower garden. If you haven’t planted them last spring make sure you do so coming fall.
An important part of spring gardening is getting on top of the weeds. Most weeds are fairly easy to control when you start taking them out from early spring on. At that time they still have a shallow root system and because they haven’t bloomed yet they haven’t reproduced either. Taking care of them in spring will pay off big in summer.
Spring, its really the growing season, and for a gardener its perhaps the most beautiful and promising time of the year.
About The Author
Linda Jenkinson is the leading author of http://www.gardening-guides.com/ and http://www.lanwmower-guide.com/
Spring is the time when nature and your garden awakes and comes alive after the long winter. That first spring flower or that first green leave is the sign that winter in coming to an end and that a new growing season has arrived.
Spring and Flower gardening is almost synonymous. Spring is the time to interplant perennials, shrubs, roses and plant or transplant your annuals.
It’s time to shape up your soil, loosen the mulch around your plants and prune your early blooming shrubs. Rake and remove leaves and debris from your garden. Without a good planting medium your flower garden will never be at its best.
Perennials will save you a lot of work in your flower garden. So keep perennials high on your list. These hardworking beauties eliminate yearly replanting and will still give you that spring and summer color that you are longing for. It’s best to choose varieties that don’t need a lot of staking or frequent division. Notorious sun lovers are daylilies, sedium, and speedwell. Plants like hosta, fern, sweet woodruff and columbine feel more at easy in the shadow.
Flower Bulbs add a splash of color to your spring garden. “Sprinkle” some crocuses, daffodils, and of course tulips between your flower beds. Flower bulbs are almost essential in a spring flower garden. If you haven’t planted them last spring make sure you do so coming fall.
An important part of spring gardening is getting on top of the weeds. Most weeds are fairly easy to control when you start taking them out from early spring on. At that time they still have a shallow root system and because they haven’t bloomed yet they haven’t reproduced either. Taking care of them in spring will pay off big in summer.
Spring, its really the growing season, and for a gardener its perhaps the most beautiful and promising time of the year.
About The Author
Linda Jenkinson is the leading author of http://www.gardening-guides.com/ and http://www.lanwmower-guide.com/
The "Art" of Gardening by Examining Bonsai Tools
by: Michael Caputi
Tools play an important role in gardening. Whether you use hand tools or power tools, it doesn't matter. The dance you have between your fingers and hands directly influences your work in creating a beautiful garden. The tools used to make possible your crafting of a garden are a mere extension of your creative mind.
This couldn't be more visible in the art of bonsai. Bonsai may indeed be one of the most unique forms of container gardening. Started as an art thousands of years ago in China, bonsai has evolved to a rapid growing international hobby. The use of bonsai tools, similar to the use of gardening tools in a garden, help shape and train a common tree into a work of art. Any tree could become a bonsai tree, it’s just a matter of controlling its physical properties to resemble a real tree, but keeping it in a small form. Because of the use of bonsai tools, many even consider it a craft. However, the reality is that the end creation is a visible living art - very much like a garden.
Therefore, when shopping for you gardening tools, or tools in general, keep in mind, quality tools and the correct technique in which to use them make a world of difference to the artist and the result – in this case a garden or bonsai. There are many tools, each having a specific function. Even in bonsai, there are many different kinds of tools. On a well-known bonsai tool site, http://www.bonsai-tools.com, you can see many of common tool selections. For further education about how bonsai tools can help you get started in the art of bonsai, please visit http://www.bonsai-tool.com. This is an authority bonsai tool website, with great knowledge about bonsai tools and bonsai trees in general.
About The Author
Michael Caputi is the author of the article. He runs a successful bonsai tools website business found at http://www.bonsai-tools.com/
The article The "Art" of Gardening Tools by Examining Bonsai, is the property of http://www.bonsai-tools.com/ and of Michael Caputi.
Tools play an important role in gardening. Whether you use hand tools or power tools, it doesn't matter. The dance you have between your fingers and hands directly influences your work in creating a beautiful garden. The tools used to make possible your crafting of a garden are a mere extension of your creative mind.
This couldn't be more visible in the art of bonsai. Bonsai may indeed be one of the most unique forms of container gardening. Started as an art thousands of years ago in China, bonsai has evolved to a rapid growing international hobby. The use of bonsai tools, similar to the use of gardening tools in a garden, help shape and train a common tree into a work of art. Any tree could become a bonsai tree, it’s just a matter of controlling its physical properties to resemble a real tree, but keeping it in a small form. Because of the use of bonsai tools, many even consider it a craft. However, the reality is that the end creation is a visible living art - very much like a garden.
Therefore, when shopping for you gardening tools, or tools in general, keep in mind, quality tools and the correct technique in which to use them make a world of difference to the artist and the result – in this case a garden or bonsai. There are many tools, each having a specific function. Even in bonsai, there are many different kinds of tools. On a well-known bonsai tool site, http://www.bonsai-tools.com, you can see many of common tool selections. For further education about how bonsai tools can help you get started in the art of bonsai, please visit http://www.bonsai-tool.com. This is an authority bonsai tool website, with great knowledge about bonsai tools and bonsai trees in general.
About The Author
Michael Caputi is the author of the article. He runs a successful bonsai tools website business found at http://www.bonsai-tools.com/
The article The "Art" of Gardening Tools by Examining Bonsai, is the property of http://www.bonsai-tools.com/ and of Michael Caputi.
Great Gardening Advice About Organic Gardening
by: Hamza Davis
When most people think of organic gardening they think of gardening without the use of chemicals such as fertilizers, insecticides and pesticides. Although these are essential elements, organic gardening involves a lot more. Organic gardening in it’s broadest sense refers to a system of gardening in harmony with nature.
The organic gardener tries to minimize the impact of his gardening efforts on the environment and natural systems. Organic gardening is self sustaining and aims to leave the environment in the same state as it was found - avoiding depletion of resources and safeguarding the delicate balance that exists in nature.
True organic gardening therefore considers the role that even the smallest micro organism has to play in the ecology of the garden and attempts to make use of resources present naturally in the environment rather than introduce external chemicals into the process.
Selection of plants appropriate to the environment is therefore a vital part of organic gardening. Whereas chemical based agriculture attempts to change the environment to suit the crop by using chemical additives and fertilizers etc. The organic approach is to best use the resources naturally available. Principles of organic gardening also involve crop rotation to prevent nutrient depletion.
Constantly growing the same type of plant -that is plants which have the same or similar nutrient requirements could lead to severe depletion of these elements in the soil. Crop rotation by alternately growing plants with different nutrient requirements allows the soil to replenish its nutrient supplies and rejuvenate itself.
These concepts are very succinctly stated in the International Federation of Organic Agriculture Movement’s Principles of Organic Agriculture as follows:
“The role of Organic Agriculture, whether in farming , processing, distribution or consumption is to sustain and enhance the health of the ecosystems and organisms from the smallest in the soil to human beings”
Stated in this manner the objective of organic gardening and agriculture while laudable might seem rather unachievable. However, there are many practical and simple strategies that could promote this objective. These include:
Composting - rather than using chemicals and other artificial additives to boost soil nutrients the organic approach is through recycling of plant matter itself through composting. Instead of using pesticides the organic gardener uses natural methods to control insects and other organisms. The emphasis is on control rather than total eradication. Crop rotation helps by not letting pests that feed on any particular type of plant to establish a strong presence. Another strategy may be to grow plants which encourage the presence of “pest predators” or growing companion plants that repel insects. These are a few of the many natural environmental control mechanisms available to the organic gardener.
Weed control could be done for instance through use of mulches and natural ground cover.
The major criticism of organic gardening is that it is not as efficient or productive as chemical based gardening. It is suggested that yields can be significantly increased by use of artificial cultivation methods. However, the organic gardener would argue that the increased yields come at an unacceptably high price. A price expressed in terms of the new and increased health risks associated with exposure to dangerous chemicals. Chemicals which find their way into all manner of products and foods as result of contamination of waterways etc. Pollution and degradation of the environment as a result is the other price we pay for non-organic gardening.
Since the beginning of the 1990’s interest in organic gardening has been increasing in leaps and bounds and shows no signs of abating. Although organic gardening is not likely to take over in the short run it is obviously here to stay.
About The Author
Hamza is committed to promoting health and wellness. Would you like to know more about organic gardening? Please visit organic gardening http://cybermedicinestore.com/.
When most people think of organic gardening they think of gardening without the use of chemicals such as fertilizers, insecticides and pesticides. Although these are essential elements, organic gardening involves a lot more. Organic gardening in it’s broadest sense refers to a system of gardening in harmony with nature.
The organic gardener tries to minimize the impact of his gardening efforts on the environment and natural systems. Organic gardening is self sustaining and aims to leave the environment in the same state as it was found - avoiding depletion of resources and safeguarding the delicate balance that exists in nature.
True organic gardening therefore considers the role that even the smallest micro organism has to play in the ecology of the garden and attempts to make use of resources present naturally in the environment rather than introduce external chemicals into the process.
Selection of plants appropriate to the environment is therefore a vital part of organic gardening. Whereas chemical based agriculture attempts to change the environment to suit the crop by using chemical additives and fertilizers etc. The organic approach is to best use the resources naturally available. Principles of organic gardening also involve crop rotation to prevent nutrient depletion.
Constantly growing the same type of plant -that is plants which have the same or similar nutrient requirements could lead to severe depletion of these elements in the soil. Crop rotation by alternately growing plants with different nutrient requirements allows the soil to replenish its nutrient supplies and rejuvenate itself.
These concepts are very succinctly stated in the International Federation of Organic Agriculture Movement’s Principles of Organic Agriculture as follows:
“The role of Organic Agriculture, whether in farming , processing, distribution or consumption is to sustain and enhance the health of the ecosystems and organisms from the smallest in the soil to human beings”
Stated in this manner the objective of organic gardening and agriculture while laudable might seem rather unachievable. However, there are many practical and simple strategies that could promote this objective. These include:
Composting - rather than using chemicals and other artificial additives to boost soil nutrients the organic approach is through recycling of plant matter itself through composting. Instead of using pesticides the organic gardener uses natural methods to control insects and other organisms. The emphasis is on control rather than total eradication. Crop rotation helps by not letting pests that feed on any particular type of plant to establish a strong presence. Another strategy may be to grow plants which encourage the presence of “pest predators” or growing companion plants that repel insects. These are a few of the many natural environmental control mechanisms available to the organic gardener.
Weed control could be done for instance through use of mulches and natural ground cover.
The major criticism of organic gardening is that it is not as efficient or productive as chemical based gardening. It is suggested that yields can be significantly increased by use of artificial cultivation methods. However, the organic gardener would argue that the increased yields come at an unacceptably high price. A price expressed in terms of the new and increased health risks associated with exposure to dangerous chemicals. Chemicals which find their way into all manner of products and foods as result of contamination of waterways etc. Pollution and degradation of the environment as a result is the other price we pay for non-organic gardening.
Since the beginning of the 1990’s interest in organic gardening has been increasing in leaps and bounds and shows no signs of abating. Although organic gardening is not likely to take over in the short run it is obviously here to stay.
About The Author
Hamza is committed to promoting health and wellness. Would you like to know more about organic gardening? Please visit organic gardening http://cybermedicinestore.com/.
Hydroponic Gardening
by: Timothy Samuel
This amazing system can truly change the world. By setting up this system and following simple instructions you can grow your own fruits and vegetables. Hydroponics is growing plants with out soil and you can basically do it anywhere once you learn the steps of setting up your own system. Let's talk about a few facts about hydroponics.
Today, hydroponics is an established branch of agronomical science. Progress has been rapid, and results obtained in various countries have proved it to be thoroughly practical and to have very definite advantages over conventional methods of horticulture. The two chief merits of the soilless cultivation of plants are, first, much higher crop yields, and secondly, the fact that hydroponics can be used in places where ordinary agriculture or gardening is impossible. Thus not only is it a profitable undertaking, but one which has proved of great benefit to humanity. People living in crowded city streets, without gardens, can grow fresh vegetables and fruits in window-boxes or on house tops. By means of hydroponics all such places can be made to yield a regular and abundant supply of clean, health-giving green stuff. Not only town dwellers, but also country residents have cause to be thankful to soilless culture. Deserts, rocky and stony land in mountainous districts or barren and sterile areas can be made productive at relatively low cost. It is difficult to exaggerate the importance of hydroponics for it has given a new lease of life to the landless worker.
Other advantages include faster growth combined with relative freedom from soil diseases, and very consistent crops, the quality of produce being excellent. There is also a considerable reduction in growing area, weeds are practically non-existent, while standard methods and automatic operations mean less labor, less cost, and no hard manual work. Some plants can be raised, out of season, better control of crops naturally results in addition to no dirt and no smells. Water logging never occurs now. Chemically grown plants are not inferior to naturally reared ones in point of flavor, nor have analyses shown any deficiency in vitamin content.
Disadvantages of hydroponic gardening
The hydroponic conditions (presence of fertilizer and high humidity) create an environment that stimulates salmonella growth. Since we've given you the benefits of hydroponic gardening, we should probably list its disadvantages. And there are a few.The primary disadvantage of hydroponics at this time is cost. Because hydroponic gardening is still something of a rarity, even commercially, the initial equipment needed for hydroponic systems can be expensive. But there's an up side even to that. Once you have a hydroponic garden established, the cost of running it is cheaper than soil gardening. Another disadvantage is that pump-driven hydroponic systems can be susceptible to power outages. For that reason we recommend having a back-up power source available should you build a hydroponic garden. Another disadvantage often cited is the hydroponic gardener's greater need for technical knowledge. We quibble with this one a bit. If you're getting into hydroponic gardening, chances are you've done your homework beforehand and you've already had significant gardening experience. Setting up an air pump and monitoring a nutrient solution isn't like flying a space shuttle. If you're diligent and conscientious there's no reason to be daunted by the idiosyncrasies of a hydroponic gardening system. And as you can see, the benefits of hydroponic gardening far outweigh the disadvantages.
About The Author
Timothy Samuel owner of http://www.teegoes.org/and place to find great tips on gardening.
Visit the author's web site at:
http://www.teegoes.org/
This amazing system can truly change the world. By setting up this system and following simple instructions you can grow your own fruits and vegetables. Hydroponics is growing plants with out soil and you can basically do it anywhere once you learn the steps of setting up your own system. Let's talk about a few facts about hydroponics.
Today, hydroponics is an established branch of agronomical science. Progress has been rapid, and results obtained in various countries have proved it to be thoroughly practical and to have very definite advantages over conventional methods of horticulture. The two chief merits of the soilless cultivation of plants are, first, much higher crop yields, and secondly, the fact that hydroponics can be used in places where ordinary agriculture or gardening is impossible. Thus not only is it a profitable undertaking, but one which has proved of great benefit to humanity. People living in crowded city streets, without gardens, can grow fresh vegetables and fruits in window-boxes or on house tops. By means of hydroponics all such places can be made to yield a regular and abundant supply of clean, health-giving green stuff. Not only town dwellers, but also country residents have cause to be thankful to soilless culture. Deserts, rocky and stony land in mountainous districts or barren and sterile areas can be made productive at relatively low cost. It is difficult to exaggerate the importance of hydroponics for it has given a new lease of life to the landless worker.
Other advantages include faster growth combined with relative freedom from soil diseases, and very consistent crops, the quality of produce being excellent. There is also a considerable reduction in growing area, weeds are practically non-existent, while standard methods and automatic operations mean less labor, less cost, and no hard manual work. Some plants can be raised, out of season, better control of crops naturally results in addition to no dirt and no smells. Water logging never occurs now. Chemically grown plants are not inferior to naturally reared ones in point of flavor, nor have analyses shown any deficiency in vitamin content.
Disadvantages of hydroponic gardening
The hydroponic conditions (presence of fertilizer and high humidity) create an environment that stimulates salmonella growth. Since we've given you the benefits of hydroponic gardening, we should probably list its disadvantages. And there are a few.The primary disadvantage of hydroponics at this time is cost. Because hydroponic gardening is still something of a rarity, even commercially, the initial equipment needed for hydroponic systems can be expensive. But there's an up side even to that. Once you have a hydroponic garden established, the cost of running it is cheaper than soil gardening. Another disadvantage is that pump-driven hydroponic systems can be susceptible to power outages. For that reason we recommend having a back-up power source available should you build a hydroponic garden. Another disadvantage often cited is the hydroponic gardener's greater need for technical knowledge. We quibble with this one a bit. If you're getting into hydroponic gardening, chances are you've done your homework beforehand and you've already had significant gardening experience. Setting up an air pump and monitoring a nutrient solution isn't like flying a space shuttle. If you're diligent and conscientious there's no reason to be daunted by the idiosyncrasies of a hydroponic gardening system. And as you can see, the benefits of hydroponic gardening far outweigh the disadvantages.
About The Author
Timothy Samuel owner of http://www.teegoes.org/and place to find great tips on gardening.
Visit the author's web site at:
http://www.teegoes.org/
Home Vegetable Gardening: Growing Rhubarb
With a quick search on various food recipe sites I was amazed to see the number of different dishes you can create with Rhubarb. Usually rhubarb was always reserved for pies in my household, but you can do so much more with it.
I find rhubarb will grow best for you if you can pick up a few starter plants from a local home or garden center. Keep in mind that rhubarb is a perennial (it will return year after year) and loves to spread out fairly quickly, so plan your garden accordingly. Here is how you can add rhubarb to your backyard home vegetable garden.
Rhubarb likes soil to be on the more acidic side around the 5.5 to 6.5 range on the pH scale. You can simply test your soil with a home soil testing kit available from any home or garden center for just a couple of bucks. Once you have the reading of your soil follow the instructions on the kit to raise or lower the soil's pH level as needed.
Plant the roots of your rhubarb plant in the springtime at least one inch deep and no deeper than three inches in an area of the garden that receives light shade to full sun. A lot of gardeners I talk to like to plant rhubarb on the outer edge of the garden by itself and space them out two to three feet.
Once planted, make sure you water it well so the soil where the rhubarb is growing is constantly moist. As the rhubarb grows it will develop flowering shoots. Cut these shoots off as they are not needed.
Avoid harvesting rhubarb in the first year and in your second year only take a few so the rhubarb has time to really spread in subsequent years. Starting in year 3 you can really begin to harvest plenty of rhubarb and then every 5 years thin back your rhubarb by removing some of the plants. If it gets too overgrown the rhubarb won't develop properly.
Since Rhubarb is a perennial crop there is no need for crop rotation or companion planting. Just make sure you feed your rhubarb with a good supply of compost. It will thank you with tasty rhubarb for years to come. About the Author
Mike is the author of the book Vegetable Gardening for the Average Person: A Guide to Vegetable Gardening for the Rest of Us, available where gardening books are sold. Sign up for Mike's vegetable gardening newsletter at his website: AveragePersonGardening.com and he will send you a free pack of vegetable seeds to get your garden started.
Related Articles - organic, mulch, vermicompost, moisture, home, vegetable, garden, nitrogen, lime, compost, manure,
I find rhubarb will grow best for you if you can pick up a few starter plants from a local home or garden center. Keep in mind that rhubarb is a perennial (it will return year after year) and loves to spread out fairly quickly, so plan your garden accordingly. Here is how you can add rhubarb to your backyard home vegetable garden.
Rhubarb likes soil to be on the more acidic side around the 5.5 to 6.5 range on the pH scale. You can simply test your soil with a home soil testing kit available from any home or garden center for just a couple of bucks. Once you have the reading of your soil follow the instructions on the kit to raise or lower the soil's pH level as needed.
Plant the roots of your rhubarb plant in the springtime at least one inch deep and no deeper than three inches in an area of the garden that receives light shade to full sun. A lot of gardeners I talk to like to plant rhubarb on the outer edge of the garden by itself and space them out two to three feet.
Once planted, make sure you water it well so the soil where the rhubarb is growing is constantly moist. As the rhubarb grows it will develop flowering shoots. Cut these shoots off as they are not needed.
Avoid harvesting rhubarb in the first year and in your second year only take a few so the rhubarb has time to really spread in subsequent years. Starting in year 3 you can really begin to harvest plenty of rhubarb and then every 5 years thin back your rhubarb by removing some of the plants. If it gets too overgrown the rhubarb won't develop properly.
Since Rhubarb is a perennial crop there is no need for crop rotation or companion planting. Just make sure you feed your rhubarb with a good supply of compost. It will thank you with tasty rhubarb for years to come. About the Author
Mike is the author of the book Vegetable Gardening for the Average Person: A Guide to Vegetable Gardening for the Rest of Us, available where gardening books are sold. Sign up for Mike's vegetable gardening newsletter at his website: AveragePersonGardening.com and he will send you a free pack of vegetable seeds to get your garden started.
Related Articles - organic, mulch, vermicompost, moisture, home, vegetable, garden, nitrogen, lime, compost, manure,
How To Make A Garden You Will Enjoy
Gardens can be created out of anything and for any reason. Personal preference is the key. Maybe life is hectic and a get-away spot is needed, or possibly boredom has ensued and there is a need for a change of pace. Just having a quite place to relax and gather thoughts can be comforting. Gardening can be therapeutic, whether it's an herb, vegetable, or rock garden. It doesn't matter what type, as long as it is a stress-free place.
Picking an Area- Location of a garden can make all the difference. If it is supposed to be a place of peace, don't plant it in the middle of a busy area. A shade garden wouldn't do well in full sun, just as a vegetable garden is difficult in a desert. Gardens can be large or small, they can consist of a variety of plants or just a couple, as long as they are fun to create and enjoyable when finished.
Obtaining Tools- Supplies to make a garden can vary greatly, again, it depends on what sort of garden is being made. Rakes, shovels, buckets, gloves, and anything else needed to work the ground is a plus.
Wheelbarrows are excellent for moving all this stuff from the shed to the new garden spot as well. If heavy equipment is needed, there are many rental places in cities, which means it wouldn't have to be a hefty purchase for equipment only used one time.
Getting the Ground Ready- When plants or seeds are going to be placed in a garden area, the dirt will need prepared for their arrival. Grass and rocks have to be removed and manure or fertilizer may need to be added. Taking off the sod in sheets is sometimes easier than tilling up the grass and picking out clumps. Using a shovel to take off the top layer generally keeps the grass from growing back too soon.
Getting Plants- Plants are everywhere and easily obtainable. Herb seeds are easy to grow, they can be sprinkled on the soil and covered lightly with a thin layer of dirt. Nurseries and hardware stores tend to have huge sales on plants at the end of the season. Digging up some wild flowers out of the backyard is always an option as well. Make sure to water the plants well if they aren't able to be planted right away and right after placing them in the soil.
The Final Touches- Items can be added to the garden area to enhance the feel. Walkways are a nice touch to keep plants from being trampled and they also help with weed control. Bird baths or feeders are good if wildlife is enjoyed. Maybe there is some catnip for kitty to enjoy, so a small stump for him to hang out on might be appreciated. A special chair that has sentimental value can be placed or even the little ceramic gnome that brings out a smile. Anything to make it more personal.
Admiring Your Space- This is the final and most important step of all... To enjoy your creation!
Annie is an expert furniture and interior design writer. Her current area of specialism is bathroom designs, children's furniture and furniture
Related Articles - gardening, plants, support, trees, garden, lasagna,
Picking an Area- Location of a garden can make all the difference. If it is supposed to be a place of peace, don't plant it in the middle of a busy area. A shade garden wouldn't do well in full sun, just as a vegetable garden is difficult in a desert. Gardens can be large or small, they can consist of a variety of plants or just a couple, as long as they are fun to create and enjoyable when finished.
Obtaining Tools- Supplies to make a garden can vary greatly, again, it depends on what sort of garden is being made. Rakes, shovels, buckets, gloves, and anything else needed to work the ground is a plus.
Wheelbarrows are excellent for moving all this stuff from the shed to the new garden spot as well. If heavy equipment is needed, there are many rental places in cities, which means it wouldn't have to be a hefty purchase for equipment only used one time.
Getting the Ground Ready- When plants or seeds are going to be placed in a garden area, the dirt will need prepared for their arrival. Grass and rocks have to be removed and manure or fertilizer may need to be added. Taking off the sod in sheets is sometimes easier than tilling up the grass and picking out clumps. Using a shovel to take off the top layer generally keeps the grass from growing back too soon.
Getting Plants- Plants are everywhere and easily obtainable. Herb seeds are easy to grow, they can be sprinkled on the soil and covered lightly with a thin layer of dirt. Nurseries and hardware stores tend to have huge sales on plants at the end of the season. Digging up some wild flowers out of the backyard is always an option as well. Make sure to water the plants well if they aren't able to be planted right away and right after placing them in the soil.
The Final Touches- Items can be added to the garden area to enhance the feel. Walkways are a nice touch to keep plants from being trampled and they also help with weed control. Bird baths or feeders are good if wildlife is enjoyed. Maybe there is some catnip for kitty to enjoy, so a small stump for him to hang out on might be appreciated. A special chair that has sentimental value can be placed or even the little ceramic gnome that brings out a smile. Anything to make it more personal.
Admiring Your Space- This is the final and most important step of all... To enjoy your creation!
Annie is an expert furniture and interior design writer. Her current area of specialism is bathroom designs, children's furniture and furniture
Related Articles - gardening, plants, support, trees, garden, lasagna,
Gardening: The Relaxing Way to Green Thumb Gardening
Welcome to the World of Gardening. Here we are going to talk about The Relaxing Way to Green Thumb Gardening, to make you into the green thumb you always wanted to be, even if you haven't planted one plant or tree in your life. We'll be discussing Vegetable Gardening, Gardening Proverbs, Hydroponic Gardening, Gardening Advice, Flower Gardening, Bonsai Gardening and Hypertufa Gardening, Container Gardening, Gardening Tools, Greenhouse Gardening Basics and a lot more...
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